Plan Drawing of Patio Cover
Patio Encompass Plans
These patio encompass plans describe how I built my own patio cover. There are many ways to build a patio embrace; every state of affairs is different. These plans are intended to provide you with some useful insight, while you are designing and building a patio embrace for your own home.
Patio Cover Plans - Getting Started
Earlier I began designing the structure of my new patio encompass, I expanded the existing 10' x ten' patio slab past pouring another ten' x 10' slab next to it, making it roughly 10' 10 20'.
Since I was planning to adhere my patio encompass to the existing roof overhang of my home, I ensured that it was capable of carrying half of the weight of the new patio comprehend roof. If y'all are planning to do something similar, and you are unsure of the existing framing, you lot tin can remove a section of fascia or soffit to examine the underlying structure. With the rafter tail framing exposed, yous might fifty-fifty contact a local carpenter or structural engineer for their advice. The other half of the weight of the patio cover roof is carried past an outer 4x6 beam, supported by three 6x6 posts. (encounter the Side View diagram)
If you determine that attaching your patio comprehend to your roof overhang is not an pick, you might consider these new near-free-standing patio cover plans (available on mycarpentry.com).
Special note: These plans are not intended to replace engineered working drawings. Local edifice codes can vary significantly among the regions. Your local building lawmaking should determine the actual sizes of concrete footings, slabs, woods structural members, and fasteners to exist used. A structural engineer should determine if your existing construction is capable of supporting the additional load factors of a patio cover. Earlier start structure, contact your building permitting authorities to obtain a building allow and to accept your design reviewed so that information technology complies with local edifice codes and guidelines.
Patio Cover Plans - Pattern Factors
- Roof Pattern Load - This is combination of the dead load (the weight of the framing material) and the alive load (boosted weight, like snow, etc. for your area) You tin get this information from the International Building Code and from your local building lawmaking authorities.
- Roof Slope - The roof needs to accept sufficient pitch required for the type of roofing that volition be used. This information tin can be obtained from the roofing manufacturer.
- Rafter Size, Length and Spacing - Once you know the Roof Load and Pitch, yous can determine the Sizes, Lengths, and Spacing of rafters, based on the Species and Grade of the lumber beingness used. You can utilize the Bridge Computer, on the American Wood Council website, to make these calculations. Try selecting the dissimilar options for Species and Spacing, etc., and compare the results.
- Beams and Posts - Once have the Blueprint load, you can multiply the lbs/ft² by the length and width of the roof to make up one's mind the total weight of the roof (live and expressionless load).
- Footings - Soil weather vary in unlike locations. Areas in the far northern (and far southern) hemispheres require deeper footings due to frost line factors. These can be determined based on the International Building Code and local building codes.
Patio Cover Plans - Structural Design
I didn't have to worry about snow when drawing my patio embrace plans, merely my ii-layer plywood decking added some "dead load" to my pattern. I had to add that to my overall load. If continuous snowfall load had been a factor, I would take had to use 2x6 or larger rafters.
Later on calculating my rafter span, I would take exceeded the chapters of my 2x4 rafters if I had spaced them 24" O.C.., but spacing them xvi" O.C.., I was within the range of my design load.
In that location were a few features that I wanted to include in my patio cover design. Writing these downwards earlier I started sketching the design, and drawing my patio cover plans, helped ensure that I would accomplish all of my goals.
- Western Red Cedar - this material is widely available in my expanse, and has superior resistance to decay.
- Fiberglass shingles to match the existing residence.
- Outside beam height to have a minimum of 6' 8" clearance (my personal preference).
- Roofing nails should not prove through the bottom of the roof decking (too a personal preference).
- 6x6 posts (notched at the top for the 4x6 beam).
- 4x6 beam.
- 2x4 rafters - based on my given span, spacing, and design load requirements.
A clearance of 6' viii", between the finished slab and the bottom of the 4x6 beam, made the pitch of my roof a little less than 2/12 (two inches of rise for every 12 inches of run). This was slightly below the manufacturer's minimum recommendations. I had no issues with my roof, however, I recommend meeting or exceeding the manufacturers specifications.
To prevent the covering nails from showing through the underside of the decking, I used ii layers of 4' ten viii' plywood when decking the roof. For the bottom layer of roof decking, I chose v/8" thick T1 eleven 4" O.C. (for a plank-like visual appearance from the underside), and for the pinnacle layer, I used 3/8" construction class (CDX) plywood. This fabricated the roof decking thickness 1".
Patio Comprehend Plans - Edifice
When you are building a patio cover off of an existing roof or wall, you must take all of your measurements from the indicate at which the patio roof will attach to the existing structure, not the outside of the slab. The existing slab can vary considerably, throwing off crucial measurements.
Since my patio roof was going to be attached to the existing rafter tails, I plumbed straight down from the exterior surface of the fascia and fabricated a mark on the patio slab. I did this on both ends of where the roof ledger was going to attach.
Afterwards, I popped a chalk-line across the patio slab between the two marks. I used this line to establish the placement of the bottom of the 6x6 posts - they all needed to be the same distance from this line.
I planned to place the 6x6 posts about 4" from the exterior edges of the concrete (to prevent cracking), while keeping them the same distance from the chalk line.
I used galvanized post anchors to secure the posts to the slab. Before securing the posts to the anchors, I cut but enough off of the bottoms of each mail service to brand them square and let the other ends run long (to be cut to size in a later step). I used temporary 2x4 braces to concord the posts plumb, while I determined the finished post heights.
With the posts plumbed, braced and secured to the galvanized anchors, I measured upwardly half dozen' viii" from the top of the slab and made a mark on the front of the center 6x6 post.
I used a level to transfer that marker from the heart post to the two outer posts. This mark would be the acme of the bottom of the 4x6 axle when installed.
Next, to determine the finished height of the posts, I measured upwards almost 6" (apply the bodily top of the 4x6 beam) from the 6' 8" marking and cut the excess material off of each post.
I notched the 6x6 posts on the outside face then that the 4x6 axle would sit on the posts furthest from the existing structure (see diagrams). I cut the 4x6 beams and then that they extend past the 2 outer posts 16" on each side. Once they were cut, I temporarily secured the beams to the 6x6 posts with deck screws, existence careful not to place them in the same location as carriage bolts. Once the beams were temporarily secured in place, I drilled 2 iii/8" holes on each end of the 2 4x6 beams for the 8" ten 3/8" carriage bolts and installed each one (see drawings).
If you have done everything perfect, the measurement from the outer beam dorsum to the existing structure should exist the same at each end of the axle. If not, check the posts to brand sure they are still plumb.
With the axle in place, I determined the location of the 2x4 ledger (that would be attached to the business firm), using the Pythagorean Theorem. I secured the 2x4 ledger with 3.5-inch deck screws into the firm'southward fascia, and used 8" x 3/8" lag screws to farther secure the 2x4 ledger beyond the fascia and sub fascia, into each of the existing rafter tails.
Once everything was secured and verified, I began the 16" O.C. layout for the 2x4 rafters. I cut 1 end of each x' rafter with a 2/12 pitch cutting (nine.46 degrees) and attached it to the 2x4 ledger with 2" galvanized woods screws.
One time the rafters were in identify and secured to the 2x4 ledger and the 4x6 beam, I measured from the firm along the top of one of the end rafters and made a mark at ix' 9". I did the aforementioned on the other end rafter and popped a chalk-line across the top of all of the patio cover rafter tails.
Using my Speed Square, I marked a 90° line, from the chalk line mark on each rafter, and cutting terminate off of each ane with a round saw. Once the rafter tails were nevertheless length, I cut the 2x4 sub fascia and fastened it to the rafter tails with two three i/2" galvanized deck screws per rafter.
Next, I installed the T1 11 plywood decking; From the sub fascia at the cease of ane of the stop-rafters, I measured upwardly along the rafter 48" and fabricated a mark on the topside of the rafter. I did the aforementioned on the other cease-rafter.
Using my Chalk Line tool, I pulled the line very tight and popped a chalk line across the tops of all of the rafters. This established a line for me to employ every bit a guide for the placement of the 48" x 96" T1 eleven plywood decking. I attached the T1 eleven decking to the rafters using 1 1/2 galvanized wood screws.
It is good practice not to completely nail off each sheet of plywood until all of the sheets are fastened to the rafters. Blast them at the corners and at places where there is a bow (if necessary) to keep the sheets apartment until they tin can exist completed nailed/screwed in identify.
There was no requirement in the edifice code for two layers of roof decking. This was my idea to prevent the roofing nails from poking through the underside. This was strictly done for corrective reasons.
To install the second layer of decking, the 3/viii" CDX plywood, I measured up from the ends of the roof 24" on each side and popped a line across (to stagger the plywood joints). I ripped two pieces of the 3/8" plywood into two equal pieces measuring 24" x 96", and secured the first course of the second layer of plywood, keeping the factory border along the 24" chalk line.
Next, I installed 1x6 cedar fascia and 1x2 drip edge on both sides and front of the roof. The fascia and drip border were secured with 2" galvanized woods screws.
The final step of the roof frame was to install the four diagonal braces located at each terminate of the 4x6 beam and the two 6x6 posts (see the Diagonal Brace Detail). Since each end of the 4x6 beam overhangs 16 inches, yous tin can determine the length of the diagonal braces using the Pythagorean Theorem. The consequence is four 4x6's @ 22 5/8" long from long point to long point with a 45° bevel on each stop. Secure them with 3 i/2" galvanized deck screws.
Finally, I installed 15# felt on tiptop of the ii layers of plywood and installed the fiberglass roofing to the specifications of the manufacturer.
Roofing Note: It should be noted that either a continuous menses of roofing or some kind of flashing is required at the intersection between the existing roof and the new patio encompass roof (in lodge to foreclose leaking). Follow the guidelines provided by the roofing manufacturer or your roofing contractor.
After completing the structure of these patio cover plans, I sealed all of the woods surfaces with a cedar colored forest sealer. Each sealant application turned the woods slightly darker, only after about three coats (stretched out over almost v years), I have not needed to re-seal the forest.
Before building a patio cover, please refer to the 2018 International Building Lawmaking for building codes related to patio covers.
Patio Cover Plans - FAQ
If you have questions nigh my patio cover plans, have a look at some of the frequently asked questions, and my answers to each of them:
Question: If I were to utilize 2x6" rafters, could I increase spacing to 24" O.C..?
Answer: That depends on the blueprint load of your roof and the span of your rafters. To determine the design load of your roof, consult your local building code. These are specific to the area where you alive. You lot tin can decide the allowable spans of different rafter sizes and spacing from the Span Calculator by the American Woods Council.
Question: If I increase the bridge of the patio cover to 24' instead of 20', would I demand another column?
Answer: This depends on the size of beam y'all are using. Is it capable of carrying the extra weight? In my design, if I were to extend the width of my patio to 24', I would have needed to add an actress post.
Question: The fascia on my house is a 2x6", would I still demand a ledger or would that work?
Answer: The near important thing is to determine if your rafter tails are capable of supporting half of the total weight of your patio encompass. Adding the 2x ledger to the outside of the fascia is very of import - it is the part of your patio cover framing that is screwed to your dwelling's structure. I wouldn't recommend just nailing rafters into the existing fascia - you don't know what is behind information technology. If you lot decide that attaching your patio cover to your roof overhang is not an option, you might consider these new almost-free-continuing patio encompass plans (bachelor on mycarpentry.com).
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